Crispy Pork Belly with Couscous and Plum Sauce

   
     The warm, sun-filled weather of summer has gone.  Cooler nights accompany daily rain-clouds that march through the Rogue Valley like a military invasion.  Most of our summer vegetables have been harvested, despite a few lingering tomatoes, peppers and stone fruit aching to be released from their stemmed bondage.  October in Southern Oregon makes the sleepy pear orchards come alive with the bustle of box-crates, ladders and trucks.  The harvest is a time-sensitive affair; almost overnight, the orchards are picked and the fruit is packed, resulting in the distribution of fine fruit to most of the country.
     The fruit trees on our property have received a different kind of attention.  Unfortunately, we did not enjoy very much of the fruit from our trees due to pest thievery. Birds, rats, squirrels, raccoons and deer have all eaten well this year!  However, our flowering plum tree produced a hefty yield which seemed relatively untouched.  This is a type of purple-leaf plum (or cherry plum.)  As the fruit is not wonderful raw, I decided to use it for a sauce.  I harvested approximately 2 pounds just as the fruit began to fall from the branches on its own accord.  It doesn't get any riper than that!

Ripe cherry plums.

     Crispy, braised pork belly was the first thing that came to mind after tasting the tart sweetness of the plum sauce.  Soft, fatty, savory pork belly is undoubtedly one of the finest foods, ever.  Although it is the same cut as bacon, uncured pork belly braised in fruit juice and booze will create a fork-tender feast worthy of applause.  Despite being a guilty pleasure, moderate amounts of braised pork belly can undoubtedly increase the quality of one's life.  Layers of muscle and fat give the braise a fluffy, fork tender appeal.  My sweetheart affectionately refers to it as "bacon cake," for obvious reasons.
     The belly is served on a bed of toasted pearl (Israeli) couscous tossed with fresh mint and cilantro.  The refreshing, herbal notes from the couscous form a flavor platform for the pork and plum sauce to dance upon.  The blend of equal parts mint and cilantro brings a bright Thai profile to the tiny pasta beads.  The glaze has a sour plum flavor that cuts through the fatty belly at the same time the sweetness highlights the savory meatiness.  Japanese plum wine, made from Ume plums, sweetens the sauce with a floral essence and slight vanilla taste.  Large couscous lends a bubbly, pearlescent texture to contrast the crackle of crisped skin.  Because the braise can take several hours, I cook the belly the day before serving, so it has a chance to cool for portioning (cutting warm, braised meat can result in frustrating destruction.)  Additionally, keep in mind that the belly is very rich; a smaller portion may be sufficient.
     I prefer to braise this cut with the skin attached, covering the meat below.  As the belly cooks, it begins to float in the braising liquid surfacing parts of the meat which could dry slightly.  Naturally, the skin insulates the muscle in a moisturizing layer of thick fat.  You may find that the rind is just too much fat to consume.  If so, I recommend cooking the belly with the skin still attached, removing it once the meat is cool.  There are claims that pig skin can be unhealthy because the animals secretes toxins through the skin, like humans.  This, however, would only concern customers of producers who raise animals in highly toxic conditions.  If the pork is not organic (or at least naturally raised,) I would probably avoid it altogether, personally.  Also, be sure your butcher removes the mammary glands from the belly; these glands can cause an unpleasantly piggish flavor.
 

Crispy Pork Belly


3 lbs pork belly (rind on)
3 cups pork stock (or chicken)
3 cups apple cider
2 cups sake
2 cups plum wine (ume)
11/2 cups coconut juice
2 Tbs cider vinegar

1 granny smith apple, seeded and quartered

1 large Spanish onion

1 bulb garlic, peeled

2 Thai chili peppers, seeds removed

1/2 Tbs black peppercorns
kosher salt

• Place aromatics into deep braising pan, season belly liberally and place on top with the skin side up.  
• Pour liquids into pan, cover with foil and bake at 400°F for 45 minutes, then drop the temperature to 325°F for 4 hours.
• Allow to cool in liquid.
• Remove carefully, wrap and chill the belly.

To serve crispy:

• Cut 5 ounce portions, score through fat (1/4 inch.)
• Season with salt, place fat side-down in cold pan and into 450°F oven for approximately 8 minutes (until golden brown and warmed through.)  
• Remove and slice through scored marks.

Braised belly, scored through the rind and first layer of fat.

Plum Soy Glaze


2 lbs cherry plums (fresh, whole)
1 cup plum wine (ume)
2 tsp tamari soy sauce

• Gently smash plums in a heavy-bottomed sauce pot, add wine and simmer for 25 minutes (stirring occasionally.)
• Pass through large strainer.
• Reduce to a glaze (approximately 1 cup.)
• Add tamari and pass through fine strainer.

Thai Pearl Couscous


1 cup pearl (Israeli) couscous
1 Tbs sunflower or rice bran oil
1 tsp salt
3 cups water
2 Tbs cilantro, chopped (fresh)
2 Tbs mint, chopped (fresh)

• Lightly toast couscous in oil, add water and salt.
• Simmer rapidly, stirring occasionally for 20-30 minutes.
• Allow to cool, slightly, then add fresh herbs and serve.

Posole

     Posole is a classic Mexican stew made with a chile based broth containing large chunks of braised meat (chicken or pork), onions and hominy.  The stew is normally served with warm tortillas, fresh avocado, shredded fresh cabbage, diced onion, fresh cilantro, sliced radish, jalapeño, and a wedge of lime.  The interactive dining experience of the many interchangeable toppings is enjoyable for a party atmosphere.  Additionally, the warming spices and savory depth provides valued enrichment on a gloomy day.
     Epazote is often used in posole as an earthy aromatic. It has a very weedy smell which reminds me of summertime nettle and sage patches along the river.  I dried several bunches of epazote last fall and am surprised how fresh it still smells! 
     This stew has a two-part process consisting of braising the meat and cooking the soup base.  Since there are many fresh ingredients which are best prepared fresh, it is often helpful to braise the pork the day before (especially for a big batch) allowing plenty of time to chop.  
 Bone-in pork shoulder is ideal for a more tender, flavorful meat.  Roasted chicken makes for a fine substitution, however.  This dinner could be prepared with substitutions for ingredients but then it would be different, not quite as delicious.  As for the canned ingredients, I certainly don't like using them, but I don't like making lye either.  10 or 12 medium-sized fresh tomatoes could suitably replace the canned tomato puree, if added in with the steeped chiles and blended smooth.  Also, if you cannot find epazote at the farmers market, a small amount of fresh oregano, sage and cilantro will suffice.
     This recipe calls for two types of canned hominy or Nixtamal which is sold in most grocery stores.  Hominy is traditionally made by soaking dried corn kernels in a mildly alkaline solution such as lye or lime and water for several days until the skin bursts from the swelling and the hull can be removed. The corn must then be rinsed multiple times to remove any residual alkalinity.  Go here to learn how to make lye.  This is certainly one of those tasks that I leave to the industrial experts because I do not enjoy handling caustic materials very often.
     The listed recipe makes a lot of soup, which is perfect to freeze and enjoy later.  Or, have a group of friends over to make quick work of the delicious goodness.  You may wish to reduce the spiciness by removing the seeds or increase the spiciness by adding more chile.

Posole
Serves 10
(Makes over 2 gallons of soup)


Braised Pork
4-5 lb. bone-in pork shoulder
1 Spanish onion quartered
4 cups white wine
salt and pepper
1 quart water
1 Tbs olive/vegetable oil 


Soup
1/2 gallon (64 oz) chicken stock
1/2 gallon water, reserve 6 cups
2 cups (16 oz) tomato purée
(2) 15 oz cans white hominy
(2) 15 oz cans golden hominy
6 cloves garlic, grated fresh
2 Spanish onions, medium diced
8 dried chile de arbol
4 dried Ancho chile
2 Tbs ground cumin
small bunch fresh epazote (2 Tbs dried), leaves removed from the stem
salt to taste


Braise
Preheat oven to 400°F


Season pork liberally with salt and pepper.


Place into deep pan with onion, wine and water.


Drizzle with oil and cover tightly with foil.


Cook for 4 hours at 400°F (check liquid levels at 2 and 3 hours.)


Let stand in the liquid to cool, remove from bone and chop wide, cross-grain cuts (short strands of meat fibers.)


Soup
Place chiles, stem removed, in small pot with 6 cups water, bring to a boil and let stand 10 minutes.


Blend till smooth, strain into large soup pot.


Combine chicken stock, water and chile, bring to a boil.


Add remaining ingredients and simmer for 15 minutes, till tender.


Season with salt to taste.  Adjust by adding liquid if necessary.


Add pork, simmer another 5 min.  Cover, let stand for at least 30 minutes.


Serve hot with:
Fresh chopped cabbage
" avocado
" cilantro
" minced onion
" sliced jalapeño
" " radish
a wedge of lime
and warm corn tortillas.


Oh, and a cold cerveza!

Red Wine Braised Lamb Shanks

  Since the weather has not gotten any better, I have decided to prepare some braised lamb shanks to warm up the soul a bit.  Deliciously comforting, lamb shanks make a great meal for a cold spring day especially served with some new potatoes and fresh spring vegetables.  A French restaurant I once worked at used to serve shanks just like these on a vanilla potato-leek compote that was strangely wonderful with the lamb.
  Braising is my favorite way to cook.  I love taking inexpensive cuts of meat and turning them into tender, flavorful meals.  The cultural significance of braising is very much rooted within the common-folk and peasant history.  These muscles are used for locomotion, versus steering, and tend to have more cartilage and connective tissues which keep the meat tender and succulent when it melts.  First searing in the flavor and moisture, then slowly breaking down the connective tissues with moist heat is the most common method used.  This combination of wet and dry cooking processes leads to a fully cooked muscle that falls apart, yet is full of moisture.  If one were to braise a very lean, fat-less tenderloin they would have a very disappointing and dry hunk of meat.  On that same note, if you served a chuck roast medium rare you would have a very sore jaw.  It is best to braise low and slow at a constant temperature of 325°F for approximately 5 hours, yet I find 3 hours at 400°F works for convenience.
  The shank is the fore-leg of an animal, usually bone-in containing several small muscles with tendon and ligament attachment.  Most butchers sell them 'cracked' or without the knee joint (usually ideal for serving on the bone). If it is going into a stew or another application I would leave this joint attached to yield more product and increase the flavor.
  Lamb has a unique flavor that is sometimes too gamey for some.  I find that a simple red wine braise is effective in softening these flavors while also enhancing the savory attributes and cutting the fattiness with the residual tannins.  Pinot Noir is a perfect wine to use as it is very delicate, yet full bodied.  A Petite Syrah or Shiraz is suitable as well.

Red Wine Braised Lamb Shanks
Serves Two

2 large lamb shanks
1 750 ml bottle of Pinot Noir, poured into plastic container
1 qt veal stock
1/4 cup vegetable oil (preferably rice bran)
1 large spanish onion chopped (halved, then quartered)
2 celery stalks chopped large
2 carrots chopped large
6 cloves garlic smashed once
6 small mushrooms halved (button, brown, porcini, morel, etc.)
2 bay leaves (1 if fresh)
2 sprigs fresh thyme
Salt and Black Pepper
1 Tbs butter

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Season liberally with salt and pepper.

Start a heavy pan on high heat with 1/4 cup vegetable oil.

Sear the shanks on high heat until brown on all sides.

Remove shanks from pan, carefully pour out oil and salt left in the pan.

Return pan and shanks to heat, slowly deglaze with red wine being careful not to ignite the pan.

Add all ingredients, except the butter, evenly distributed across pan.

Cover tightly with foil and place in oven.

Cook for 3 hours at 400°F, until fork-tender.*

Let shanks rest in braising liquid, covered, until manageable.  (This allows the meat to absorb moisture lost during heat induced contraction.)

Remove shanks from pan, strain liquid into saucepan and reduce to desired sauce consistency.  Add butter and stir to emulsify.

Serve with seasonal vegetables, baby potatoes, hearty greens, whatever comforts you.

*This recipe is based on simplicity and ease.  Based on your needs, you may wish to reduce oven temperatures and extend cooking times for better results. Remember to check liquid levels periodically as  they may drop unexpectedly; simply add more water and reseal.